A high mountain walk (and a tumble) in the Gaistal Valley, Austria

It’s become an annual ritual for my friend and I to take off for a few days in early September for some hiking in the mountains. Over four years we walked the Tour de Mont Blanc and revelled in the high mountain passes and physical challenge. Last year our walk in the Serra de Tramuntana of Mallorca was beautiful but just a little tame.

Perhaps a few days hiking in the Tyrol region of Austria would give us the chance to test ourselves in the mountains while returning to a comfortable hotel each night and not a bunk bed in sight.

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The picturesque Gaistal Valley

For our first day’s walk we decided on the Gaistal Valley since it could be easily reached direct from the hotel and promised some great views without too many extremes of altitude. As we left our hotel the sun was already warm, the path meandering through the traditional houses in the hamlet of Kirchplatzl.

We felt the order of this Tyrolean community in the well-kept houses, each with a painted name. Vibrant flowering window boxes seemed to burst with the energy of the mountain air and copious amounts of plant feed.

The gravel track wound gradually upwards through forest with occasional gaps in the trees where we could see a field of horses or piles of freshly mown clover that would be dried for winter fodder. With a forecast of several days of sunshine ahead of us, the farmers were literally making hay while the sun shines.

As the track curved upwards we could hear the sound of rushing water and found a bench to overlook the Klammbach Gorge where the mountain river was tumbling over the rocks below us. We left the gravel track on a much steeper climb, picking our way over the forest roots on the path.

Sunlight dappled through the pines, with lush grass speckled with blue cornflowers and baby pines trees pushing up to make the next generation of forest.

Reaching Wettersteinhutte mountain hut

Finally at the top of the forest trail we reached the Wettersteinhutte, a mountain hut with terrace overlooking the valley below. Red geraniums and hanging baskets were blooming in every corner and cheerful red sun umbrellas completed the inviting scene.

The balcony provided a welcoming space to order a couple of the beers from the crates that were cooling in the water trough.

The Gaistal Valley is well known for the many huts that serve the thirsty walker, serving wholesome and hearty fare using local cheese, sausages and other mountain produce.

We were hoping to continue up the valley to discover some other huts that we had been recommended for lunch, especially the Tillfussalm hut that we heard made cheese and dairy produce that they served in their cafe.

Unfortunately we never made it to any other huts, since it was soon after we left the Wettersteinhutte that I took a tumble. My friend was well ahead of me due to my habit of stopping every few minutes to take photos. The path was flat but narrow and open to one side with a steep grassy slope below.

I fall and twist my ankle

Somehow I missed my footing on the side of the path, over balanced and rolled down the slope a few times until I managed to stop myself. I sat for a while in shock, trying to assess the damage and realised that my right ankle had been twisted quite badly, although thankfully nothing seemed to be broken.

For a while I shouted constantly, calling my friend’s name, but she was too far down the path and couldn’t hear me. No other walkers came along the path above me.

Cautiously I inched my bottom up the slope and little by little made it back up to the path. Thankfully I could walk on my ankle and hobbled along for another 10 minutes until I found my friend waiting for me.

We assessed the situation and I took some of the painkillers I had in my small medical kit. My friend found a stout stick from the forest to help me walk. As we followed the path back down to the valley I reflected on the lessons I should learn from this tumble;

1. I normally use walking poles on these mountain walks but had left them in the hotel, a mistake I won’t make again since I feel sure I wouldn’t have lost my footing with them.
2. It’s recommended to keep a small whistle attached to your walking rucksack for attracting attention in an emergency – just the kind of emergency that there would been had my ankle been broken rather than just twisted.
3. After the tumble my friend and I decided to make a rule that we should stay within sight or at least shouting distance of one another.

Luckily there was no major harm done. We were passed by an elderly German couple who seeing the wooden staff told me “These poles are much better for your knees and legs!” Yes, I think I had learned that lesson now!

I hobble down the valley

Our plans for visiting the huts further down the valley that we’d been told were great for lunch had to be abandoned. It was now a case of getting down the mountain and assessing the damage.

Already I knew we’d have to move from the more advanced ‘2 boot’ walks to the more gentle ‘1 boot’ walks in the Headwater Holidays walking guides.

Arriving at the Salzbach car park, we followed the flat path that is also used by cyclists along the valley floor. The river was low, exposing the grey boulders with places where you could swim in the milky blue water.

We crossed a bridge and looking up could see a small cave high up in the rock face. It held a crucifix and life sized religious figures, with a shrine to St Joseph on the road below it.

As the valley widened out we reached the first village of Klamm, crossing the bridge to look for the farm shop that had been recommended to us.

Gut Leutasch, we were told, was the place to buy cured sausages and pâté. These were supplied to many of the restaurants in the area as well as local honey and fruit flavoured kirsch.

Had it been lunchtime we could have sat at the table with a cup of coffee and a fresh bread roll filled with some of the cold meats or sausages of our choice.

Heading back to Leutasch

The path now took us across the meadows backed by the mountain slopes rising behind. This was truly the Alpine scene that is the image of rural Austria.

Fields of clover uncut in some places, in others with hay drying in neat rows. In places the fat, white plastic-covered bales of hay neatly stacked at the side of the field.

We passed the neat houses with playful scarecrows sitting next to a clump of sunflowers. I thought what a wonderful place it was to bring up a family in the mountains with so much open space and fresh air. Isn’t one of the fun things about being on holiday imagining what it would be like to live somewhere else?

Another half an hour and we were back at our hotel, where I could rest my leg and we could plan a walking adventure for the next day that my ankle could manage.

More of our walking holiday in Austria

Day 2 – Hiking in Austria – the views from the cross at Seefelder Spitze. We took the cable car from Seefeld up the ridge of Seefelder Spitze for 360 degree views over Seefeld and the surrounding valleys.

Day 3 – Hiking in Austria – a Rifleman’s Parade and Mental Power Walk at Seefeld. We joined a traditional parade with local regiments in colourful uniforms, then walked back to our hotel along a forest walking trail with relaxation stations on the theme of mental wellbeing.

Day 4 – Hiking in Austria – the wild Leutasch Gorge and picturesque Mittenwald. We explored the wild, rocky landscapes of the Leutasch Gorge and the picturesque painted houses of Mittenwald. We finished with a final lakeside walk through glorious mountain scenery.

Want to go walking in Austria’s Leutasch Valley?

Heather’s 7 night walking holiday in Austria was provided by Headwater Holidays.

There are over 450km of walking trails in the Leutasch Valley accessible direct from the hotel or via local bus, taxi and lifts. The holiday includes a full programme of self-guided day walks.

Headwater offer 1 boot or 2 boot levels, depending on whether you prefer the gentle valley walks or the more challenging high altitude trails which are sometimes accessed via chair lifts and cable cars.

Also included are detailed walking guides and maps, breakfast and dinner at the hotel, a packed lunch on walking days and flights/ transfers via Innsbruck.

Headwater Holidays are a leading UK specialist in self-guided walking, cycling and relaxed activity holidays. These holidays allow you to travel at your own pace and get closer to the places you visit. For more information check the Headwater Holidays website.

More things to do in the Tyrol region of Austria

For more information on things to do in the Tyrol region of Austria visit the Tyrol tourism website. Find information about things to do in Austria on the Visit Austria Website. Information on the Seefeld Region is on the Seefeld Olympia Region Website.

How to get to Leutasch Valley, Austria

Transfers from Innsbruck airport are less than 1 hour’s drive to Leutasch. If you fly into Munich Airport, the transfer to Leutasch Valley takes around 2 hours. Transfers can be arranged through your hotel or holiday provider.

Where to stay in Leutasch

Heather stayed in Leutasch as part of the walking holiday booked through Headwater Holidays. Unfortunately the hotel where we stayed has now closed but there are many other friendly guesthouses and small hotels in Leutasch. Also check more hotel options in Seefeld here.

Read more articles about how to prepare for a hiking trip here:

How to choose the perfect waterproof jacket for your hiking holiday
10 Things to Pack for a Walking Holiday

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Thanks to Headwater Holidays who hosted* Heather’s walking holiday. The Seefeld Tourism board provided some of the experiences mentioned.

* More info on my policies page

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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